Robert Heinlein had said that “A generation which ignores history has no past and no future.” This is very true; without knowing the culture, heritage, and past of our ancestors, it is very difficult to enjoy the future. History helps us to unfold the secrets of the present world, and what better way to know the history of a town than through a heritage walk?
A heritage walk in the heart of the cleanest city in India, Indore, was organized by UdteKabootar in collaboration with the Directorate of Archaeology, Archives, and Museums, Madhya Pradesh. This event took place on Sunday, February 16, 2025, at the Rajwada corridors. The three-hour walk explored these corridors, starting with Krishnapura Chhatri, then Rajwada Palace, and finally, Boliya Sarkar ki Chhatri.
Krishnapura Chhatri, or cenotaph, was built in honor of a woman ruler from the Holkar dynasty, Maharani Krishna Bai, the second wife of Maharaja Yashwant Rao Holkar I. These stone memorials, facing west towards the Khan River, stand gracefully on its banks, with pyramidal spires tapering into soaring kalashas. After the death of Maharaja Yashwant Rao Holkar I, Maharani Krishna Bai became the guardian of Prince Maharaja Malhar Rao II and was involved in royal court duties, much like her ancestor Devi Ahilya Bai. The cenotaph of Krishna Bai Holkar exemplifies Hindu temple architecture, combining Mughal, Maratha, and Rajput styles. On both sides of the main entrance, doorkeepers are depicted wearing Maratha-style clothing, reflecting the lifestyle of the people of that time. The door jamb of Garbha Griha is highly decorated and made of marble, with an engraved image of Ganesha, which is distinctly Maratha in style. Images of doorkeepers, Lord Krishna, and cows are also engraved there. Nearby are the cenotaphs of Maharaja Tukoji Rao Holkar and his son Maharaja Shivaji Rao Holkar, connected by a common corridor. Despite being part of a Shaivite family, Krishna Bai was a devout follower of Krishna. This devotion led her to begin construction of the magnificent Gopal Mandir, a temple dedicated to Lord Krishna, in 1832. The temple is located on the right side of the Rajwada Palace.
Rajwada Palace was started constructing in 1747 AD by the founder of the Holkar dynasty, Malhar Rao Holkar. The palace was once the center of all trading activity in the city. Rajwada palace is a seven storied palace with the initial three floors built by stones and the upper four were made of wood. This is one the major reasons for Rawjada being prone to fire. Rajwada has been burned three times since its construction. It was first set on fire in 1801 by the commander Sarjerao Ghadge of the Scindia dynasty. Reconstruction took place between 1818 and 1826, during which five floors were rebuilt. In 1834, a second fire destroyed the topmost floor. The last fire, in 1984, caused the most damage, completely destroying the back of the palace. This fire was lit to burn a sikh shop during the Sikh riots but the fire broke havoc and burned the Rajwada palace. It is said that the Palace kept bruning for 15 consecutive days. The temple of MalhariMartand, located inside the palace, was also completely ruined during the riots of 1984. Now, only the front part of the original structure remains. The palace has recently been renovated, which has partially restored its former glory. The palace hall is now used for art exhibitions and classical music concerts. Stories of the valor of Maharaja Malhar Rao Holkar and his daughter-in-law, Devi Ahilya Bai Holkar, were also shared as people enjoyed the beauty of the Darbar Hall.
The final destination was Bolia Sarkar’s Chhatri, constructed in 1858 AD in memory of Sardar ChimnajiAppa Sahib. This is one only cenotaph which is constructed in honor of a son-in-law of the Holkar family in Indore. This primarily west-facing chhatri has east and west entrances to the garbha-griha, accessible by stairs leading to a circumambulatory path. The octagonal garbha-griha sits atop a square adhisthan with arched gateways in the Amer style. Twenty-four columns support the structure, with the garbha-griha in the center. Inside, Sardar Boliya’s icon resides with his wives, a Shivalinga, and a south-facing Nandi. The chhatri’s unique design blends tradition with Mughal influences, notably the vaulted shikhar instead of traditional uru/ang shringas. Painted shikhar designs adorn the adhisthan gates, and instead of images inscribed on the jangha, icons appear atop the columns. The intricate plexus decoration of the garbha-griha is particularly noteworthy.
The stories of Indore and the Holkar kings and queens proved fascinating to the attendees. The walk concluded with people enjoying delicious lassi from Heera Lassi, a very old store near Boliya Sarkar ki Chhatri that serves delicious treats. John F. Kennedy once said, “History is a relentless master. There is no present without the past,” and that is the aim of heritage walks: to know the past so that the present can be enjoyed.
